Vogue Week is again in full power, and there’s loads to see. Blink (or scroll too quick on Instagram) and also you’ll miss the main points: tiny baggage, tall sneakers, feathered hats, leather-based capes and diamond canine collars. In order a part of a brand new collection, Wow Second, we’ll highlight issues we noticed on the runways that delighted or mystified us.
MILAN — Collaborations have dominated trend for a while now, and there’s a explicit union that tends to succeed: cool luxurious designers becoming a member of with traditional equipment manufacturers experiencing a cultural renaissance. Birkenstock has labored with Jil Sander and Proenza Schouler. Converse has collaborated with Rick Owens and Telfar. Dr. Martens has partnered with Off-White and Heaven by Marc Jacobs. And so forth.
Go away it to MM6 Maison Margiela to launch a brand new collaboration — its second with the backpack model Eastpak — and mock the character of collaborations on the similar time. The diffusion line held its spring 2022 present at a restaurant right here on Thursday night time, the place it offered small, delightfully unusual bites (like an egg that was really stable white chocolate inside a hollowed-out actual eggshell, on a menu titled Pleasures of the Pretentious Desk) and large, delightfully unusual garments. It was court docket jester stylish, with a number of variations of checkerboard prints and ruff-collar necklaces.
Of the handful of off-kilter backpacks and baggage despatched down the runway, one stood out: a flat white trompe-l’oeil type, about as extensive because the mannequin sporting it. (Eastpak calls this a poster backpack, after its rectangular form; it made them in related dimensions for a 2019 Raf Simons collaboration.) Printed on the bag is a picture of a traditional silver Eastpak backpack.
Just a few traces of textual content under the picture present an outline of the bag — impressed by the textual content in outdated Martin Margiela look books. The previous few traces learn: “This garment is designed for use et le textual content is for enjoyable. We hope you take pleasure in this backpack. À bientot.”
Nobody does humor or trompe l’oeil fairly like Margiela, itself the (couture) court docket jester of trend. However the joke right here additionally says one thing larger concerning the trade proper now: Collaborations hardly ever really feel thrilling or stunning for longer than 5 minutes, after which consideration shifts to the following buzzy collaboration. These drops have turn into rote, a part of the material of the enterprise of trend.
So let’s simply acknowledge that: Right here is backpack slapped on one other backpack. What extra would you like?